elecraft k2 « Randy Rathbun dot org

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  • Randy 9:56 am on May 26, 2009 Permalink | Log in to leave a Comment
    Tags: battery, battery capacity, battery power, Elecraft, elecraft k2, gel, power, Solar   

    DIY: Solar Power – Part 2 

    Where we left off

    If you recall, we need our to supply 750 mA continuously over a 24 hour period. I arrived at that number by taking the maximum current requirements of an transceiver and cutting them in half. That is, 1.5 A * 50%, which gives me 750 mA. 

    Please note that this is for a transceiver! That is, it is transmitting 50% of the time, and receiving 50% of the time.  If I had a non transceiver device, such as a WiFi access point, I would want to assume that it was drawing it’s rated current 100% of the time. I bring this up because it is something you will have to consider.

    Think of a light. You are probably only going to use it for only a few hours a day. In the summer, you will probably use it less. In the winter, you will use it more, however, the chances of using a light 24 hours a day are pretty slim in most cases. This is something else to really think about as well. When we were kids we were taught to turn off lights when you leave a room. When we are dealing with a limited resource, such as , we want to make sure we are practicing those same traits – when we are not using something, turn it off! It will save on the size of the system we are building, and hence, will save money. 

    Sorry if I seem to be digressing a lot, but these are extremely important things to think about. 

    Computing Capacity

    The easiest way to compute capacity is to do some simple math. In my case, I take 750 mA and multiply that by 24 hours.  so, 750 *  24 = 18000 mA = 18 A. 

    Therefore, my must be at least an 18 Ah over a 24 hour period. You are probably thinking to yourself that I would need an 18 Ah at this point. Well, it just so happens that deep cycle, including cell , are rated at a 20 hour rate. So, if a says that it will supply 18 Ah, that means it will supply 18 A over a 20 hour period. We want to go for 24 hours, which is longer than 20 hours obviously. We would end up having a problem if we used a 18 Ah ! Therefore, we need to increase our capacity. 

    The easiest way to do this is to simply add another four hours, or, 750 * 4 = 3000, or 3 A. Now I add that 3A to the 18A and come up with 21 A. Now I know that if I want to my for a 24 hour period, I would need a 21 Ah

    Overkill can be a good thing

    You might be thinking at this point that adding some extra capacity to our bank would be a good thing to do. And you would be absolutely correct in thinking that, especially if you are aiming for a source that needs to supply current constantly for a long time. Feel free to actually double the capacity. I suggest this because there are times that the sun does not shine as much as we want it to. This does not seem to make that much of a difference, if you want to know the truth, as even on the cloudiest of days I still see around 75% output from my panels, but if the system you are powering is critical, you will want that extra available when you need it. It is always best practice to assume that Mr. Murphy is going to visit as he always does at some point in time.

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  • Randy 7:35 pm on May 25, 2009 Permalink | Log in to leave a Comment
    Tags: amateur radio station, batteries, elecraft k2, , , solar power   

    DIY: Solar Power – Part 1 

    Introduction

    Many moons ago I decided it would be fun to run my off of . What started off on a small scale, quickly became overkill in some respects. However, I have had nothing but success from the endeavor.

    My main goal in doing this at that time was to just run one low powered radio for at least a 24 hour period, with no interruption. Today, I am powering two radios with the goal of having them operate continuously with zero downtime because of no . I also have a lamp, and am able to charge the on two hand-held radios – all on , and all for free. Well, kind of free.

    First things first

    If you decide that you want to undertake a project like this, you first need to sit down and figure out what you are wanting to 24-7. Although this article applies mainly to ham radio, you can apply it to other things as well. For instance, a good place to start might be powering your cable modem and WiFi access point. Since those two devices are normally left on all the time, they would be a terrific starting point – but you will have to do some other things besides hooking up a panel to them and expecting them to work.

    As a matter of fact, hooking up a panel to them would most likely result in their destruction. This is something that will be addressed later. So, for now, we will just be focusing on my powered ham radio station.

    Formulating a plan

    Any system like this needs a plan. As much as you might want it to, throwing together a batter and a is NOT the way to do things.

    The first thing you MUST do is figure out what your needs are. The radio I first used was an K2. The K2 has very low requirements – 12V @ 1.5A for 5W output when transmitting and 12V @ 400 mA when receiving.

    Now, one could hook up a directly to the device one wants to , but this would be bad for the device. very seldom put out 12 volts – the are most commonly putting out 18V and in some cases 24 and 48 volts, depending on the size of the panel. Most 12 volt devices have an operating zone they can tolerate of about 15%, so a 12V device could actually operate at (12 * .15) = 1.8, or  somewhere in the 10.2-13.8 volts range.

    But here is another kicker – a lot of things are designed to be operated in a car. The car electrical system may say it is 12 volts but in actuality it is 13.5 volts. This gives us a slightly larger operating range of  +- 2.02 volts, or, 11.5 to 15.5 volts. It is best, however, to keep this voltage at around 13.7-14.2 volts. You will see why later on.

    For now, we are wanting to try and figure out what kind of load we are going to be putting on the panel and try to size our accordingly. It would be really easy to just go buy a 150W panel and be done with it. But, we would end up spending money we probably do not need to. Add to this the physical size and weight of a 150W panel and you will probably want to do otherwise as well, especially if you are planning on taking your panels out to the field.

    In my case of using the K2, I figured that I would be drawing 1.5A around 30% of the time. I spend an awful lot of time listening instead of transmitting. However, to be safe, I went ahead and figured out the system at a 50% load of 1.5A. I would rather have too much available to me than not enough, especially since if there were some emergency communications event going on, I would need to have my station running 24/7 for up to two weeks.  Maybe longer even, if conditions so dictate.

    The nitty gritty

    Now that I know I am going to require 750 mA continuously (1.5A * 50%), I can now size the I will need. Why a ? Because the sun does not shine 24/7, no matter how much I want it to! I will need my to supply 750 mA constantly over a 24 hour period.

    The I will choose is what is commonly referred to as a Cell. These are sealed maintenance free . They are NOT car , which are actually junk and are not able to do what we need them to. If you are thinking “I will just use a car !” think again. You will have ZERO success doing this. You must use some sort of a deep cycle . A cell is a perfect to use for this application.

    One word about before we continue much further. are extremely dangerous things. You are probably not going to be shocked by them (you can be, but not with this type of system), however it is extremely easy to do something really bad and start a fire or cause an explosion. When you are working around any type of , remove any jewelry you have on. Make sure nothing can come in contact with the terminals and cause a short. If you do cause a short, run like hell because something bad is about to happen. Do NOT take any chances with these things.  I am very serious about this, and you should be too.

    With that warning out of the way, we are now ready to start doing some more cypherin’…

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